Wollemi Cycle Tour: Day 4

WOLLEMI CYCLE TOUR - DAY 4

Bylong Valley in afternoon light

Route: Dunn's Swamp, Rylstone, Growee Gulph, Bylong.
Distance: 81km

It is 29km from Dunn's Swamp to Rylstone, the first 20km being the same as the last 20km cycled the previous day but in reverse. The cycle begins with 9km of gravel road followed 20km along relatively flat bitumen road. Rylstone has two small supermarkets, a deli, bakery, newsagency, post office, hardware store, pubs, takeaway stores and other shops. A computer store in town also sells bicycles (and presumably basic spare parts, though I cannot confirm this) but is not open on Saturdays in winter. It is important to stock up on food here, as the only shops between Rylstone and Muswellbrook are a small general store (at Bylong) and roadhouse (at Sandy Hollow, Day 6).

From Rylstone it is 51km along the Bylong Valley Way to Bylong (contrary to one road sign which suggests that it is 5km further). The road to Bylong is now fully sealed yet still quiet. It begins by climbing out of the Cudgegong River Valley. Some 20km from Rylstone, one can make a 4.6km (return) side trip along unsealed road to Ferntree Gully Reserve. At Growee Gulph, only a few kilometres after the Fern Tree Gully turn-off, the Bylong Valley Way descends for 5kms into the Bylong Valley, losing 300 vertical metres. Half-way down this descent (and about 23km from Rylstone) is a picnic area. There are also, along this 5km stretch, possibilities for improvised camping. When I came down, pools of water could be found in the creek adjacent to the road. At the bottom of the gorge is a public telephone.


Descent into the Bylong Valley at Growee Gulph with Oz Mountain in the background

From the bottom of Growee Gulph, the Bylong Valley Way is mostly flat and follows the Growee River, which had no surface water when I cycled through. Apart from camping next to the road or obtaining permission to camp on farmland, there no camping opportunities until Bylong. The escarpment of the upper Bylong Valley is prominent along this stretch of road.

Bylong is a small village with a general store (open 9-6pm on weekdays, 10-5pm on weekends and holidays and closed on Christmas). Opposite the general store are toilets, coin-operated hot showers, picnic tables and a tennis court. Free camping is permitted behind the tennis courts. As there is little to do in Bylong (exceptsthe mouse races are on), it is recommended that one spend time enjoying sites along the way, such as Fern Tree Gully, or spending a greater part of the morning exploring Dunn's Swamp.

Finally, from Dunn's Swamp an alternative route to Widden (see Day 5 and Day 6) may be taken, which by-passes Rylstone and Bylong as well as making the entire tour one day shorter. From Dunn's Swamp, head west toward Rylstone for 10km and then cycle to Nullo Mountain via the unsealed Nullo Mountain Road (which involves an ascent of 500 vertical metres). Apparently there is a good lookout on the mountain overlooking the northern-western part of the Wollemi. After the lookout the road becomes a 4WD track and eventually drops into the Widden Valley, where it becomes Myrtle Creek Road. This alternate route follows in part the National Bicentennial Trail. There are no shops or other services along the way. I have not travelled this route but if I were to return to this area again then I would certainly try it. Those adopting this route would probably need to stock up on food in Kandos or Rylstone on Day 3.

Note on the Bylong Valley Way. The Bylong Valley Way became fully sealed some time in 2009. Since I cycled this trip, a Bylong Valley Way tourist website has been created to promote the region. This website has good information on towns and locaties along the touring route. On balance, I suspect that the sealing of this road will be good for cycle tourists. While traffic may increase, it is unlikely to ever be heavy.