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| Capertee Valley, near Glen Davis |
Route: Newnes, Wolgan Valley, Lidsdale, Cullen Bullen, Ben Bullen, Capertee, Capertee Valley, Glen Davis. An alternate route by-passes the highway around Lidsdale by following the Bicentennial National Trail.
Distance: 103km.
This long day's cycle is has three main stages: (1) 24km along gravel road through the Wolgan Valley, followed by a steep 3km climb on patchy bitumen surface; (2) 40km through coal mining country along sealed but busy roads (although see below for an alternative route); and (3) 36km through the Capertee Valley along a quiet road which is partially sealed, partially gravel and includes a long down-hill cycle. The first and third stages feature regular and spectacular escarpment scenery.
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| Morning at Newnes Campground | Wolgan Valley |
The road from Newnes through the Wolgan Valley is of reasonable quality. When I travelled through in 2008, there was some traffic from 9km south of Newnes generated from the construction of the Emirates Resort (which, once open would provide a luxurious but expensive alternative to camping at Newnes). Water is available at the Wolgan River weir (7km south of Newnes) and then again from the Wolgan River some 23km south of Newnes. These these two spots and Newnes provide the best options for camping along the Wolgan River (there is little scope outside these options). The climb out of the valley begins in earnest 24km south of Newnes, along 3km of patchy sealed road, gaining almost 300 vertical metres. From the top there are great views of the Wolgan Valley. For an excellent source of information about Newnes and the Wolgan Valley, click here.
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| Wolgan Valley |
After the steep climb, the condition of road improves. However, one must now contend with heavy vehicles, particularly over the next 25km, due to the collieries in the area. One way to avoid this unpleasant traffic is to follow the Bicentennial National Trail from the top of the Wolgan Valley escarpment all the way into the Capertee Valley (see the approximate route on my Google map of the tour). The national trail would be shorter and undoubtedly has superior scenery. It follows forestry roads, fire trails and enters private property. Official track notes and cue sheets for the national trail can be obtained through their website. The Central Tablelands Mountain Bike Club cycled this way on their Bungleboori to Capertee trip in 2010 (photos here). Craig, from the club, writes:
"[Compared to taking the highway,] you get more awesome views and have a lot more fun cutting across long swamp to Baal Bone Gap. Some of the most spectacular views of the Wolgan, sitting right on the cliff edge and then expansive views of the Capertee out over the back side of the Crown. If you can get permission off Pantony Station you can slip down Baal Bone Gap into the Capertee, otherwise hang a left and out to the highway at Ben Bullen."
I will now continue describing the busy route that I took on my trip.
About 10km after the climb out of the Wolgan Valley lies the small mining town of Lidsdale, along with its collieries, power stations, trucks and so on. Lidsdale has a pay phone and, where the Wolgan Valley Road meets the Castlereagh Highway, a petrol station. Wallerawang, though not en route, has a population of almost 2000, better services and is a further 2km from Lidsdale.
The Castlereagh Highway begins with a promising shoulder which deteriorates only a few kilometres later (even though the traffic does not diminish). Things quieten down around Cullen Bullen (13km north of Lidsdale), which has a small general store, post office, pub and pay phone.
Continue along the highway, passing through Ben Bullen (9km north of Cullen Bullen, no services) and 6km later stopping at Pearson's Lookout to admire the view of the Capertee Valley (the world's second largest fully enclosed valley). From here it is only a few kilometres to the village of Capertee, where one finds a nice park, toilets and roadhouse (and possibly other services further to the north along the highway).
From Capertee, the road to Glen Davis is clearly signed. It undulates until passing underneath the summit of Mount Airly, after which it plunges into the heart of the valley. Watch out for the wooden slat bridge at the bottom of one of the long hill. Shortly after the bridge, and 21km from Capertee, the bitumen gives way to a well-maintained gravel surface. Along this stretch, look out for the rare Regent's Honeyeater. A few kilometres later, the National Bicentennial Trail joins the road. The views of the valley escarpment here are wonderful, particularly in the afternoon light.
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| On the road to Glen Davis | Farm in the Capertee Valley |
Glen Davis, once a shall mining town, is now a quiet destination for those who enjoy birdwatching, bushwalking and getting away from it all. It has a pay phone, museum with kiosk (open on weekends), accommodation and a free campsite with toilets, barbecues, and free hot showers. (If the hot water is not on, call the number given at the campsite in daylight hours and politely request it be turned on.) The tap water here is fine to drink without treatment.
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| Glen Davis |
If you feel like exploring further, the road continues downstream for several kilometres after Glen Davis, reaching the boundary of the Wollemi wilderness. For those who want to get a better feel of the Capertee and Wolgan Valleys, consider walking the Pipeline Track, which offers a very direct route (11km one-way) between Newnes and Glen Davis. This walk is very steep but rewards with great views of both valleys from the escarpment of each. Allow at least one full day for the walk.
© 2008-2010 Robert Taggart. Last updated 24 July 2010.